Dry-Aged Lamb Cutlets on Live Fire with Coriander & Mint Chermoula, Charred Courgettes & Flatbread

A lamb cutlet — cut from the rack of lamb, between the rib bones of the upper back — is one of the most elegant pieces of meat available from the counter. The eye of the cutlet is the longissimus dorsi, the same muscle that gives you loin chops and sirloin steaks on the beef: it sits alongside the spine, barely used, exquisitely tender. Around it is the spinalis, a smaller muscle cap with slightly different grain and a natural seam of fat between the two. The rib bone, left long in French-trimmed cutlets, does not simply look impressive — it conducts heat, protects the eye during the fierce live-fire cook, and gives you something to hold while you eat, which is arguably the most civilised form of finger food that exists.

When buying cutlets, look for three things. A good depth of fat covering the back of the eye — at least 5mm — which renders quickly over fire and keeps the lean from drying out. Deep, rosy-burgundy flesh with visible but fine marbling; pale, pink or greyish meat indicates a younger animal or inadequate ageing. Our cutlets come from grass-fed animals dry-aged for 7 days: short by beef standards, but enough to tighten and concentrate the flavour of a meat that is already bright and assertive.

A rack of lamb divided into individual cutlets is the most theatrical and high-value way to eat the animal quickly. Buy them French-trimmed for presentation but ask your butcher to leave the fat cap on — a cutlet with its fat removed is a lesser thing. Two to three per person as a main course; three if your appetite is serious or your sides are light.

The spice rub on the cutlets is doing two jobs. The salt draws a little moisture to the surface over the resting hour, which then dissolves the salt and is reabsorbed into the meat — a rapid, partial dry-brine that seasons the lean internally. The cumin and smoked paprika add fat-soluble aromatic compounds that intensify dramatically when they hit the Maillard temperature over the coals.

The fat-side-down-first step is critical for live fire in particular. Lamb fat renders quickly; if you lay the cutlets flat immediately the melting fat drips onto the coals, causing flare-ups that deposit bitter, sooty hydrocarbons on the meat. Standing the cutlets on their fat edge for 90 seconds first pre-renders much of that outer fat without the acrid bitterness of flame.

The chermoula serves as both acid balance and aromatic counterpoint. Dry-aged lamb has an assertive, mineral depth that benefits from acidity — the lemon cuts through the fat and freshens the plate. Coriander and cumin are traditional partners to lamb across North African, Middle Eastern and South Asian cooking for good reason: their aromatic profiles complement rather than compete.

If coriander is not to your taste, a chermoula made with flat-leaf parsley and a little extra mint is equally compelling. If you have a pestle and mortar rather than a processor, making the chermoula by hand gives a coarser, more textured result that clings to the cutlets better.

Courgettes are ideal at the tail end of May — they are at the start of their season, firm and grassy-sweet. Earlier in spring, substitute thick slices of fennel, halved little gem lettuces, or whole spring onions. Later in summer, aubergine in 1cm rounds charred to soft and sticky is the natural replacement.

The recipe works identically with Barnsley chops for a more substantial plate — increase the cook time to 3–4 minutes per side and rest for 8 minutes. For a quicker weeknight version without fire, a cast-iron griddle pan on maximum heat replicates the char and crust almost identically.

The chermoula can be made up to 3 days ahead; store in a sealed jar in the fridge with a thin film of olive oil poured over the surface to prevent oxidation. The spice rub can go on the cutlets up to 24 hours in advance. Grilled cutlets are best eaten immediately; leftovers keep for 2 days refrigerated and are excellent cold in a flatbread with extra chermoula, yoghurt and shredded lettuce.

The plate is largely complete as written. To extend it for a larger table, add a bowl of thick, full-fat yoghurt seasoned with garlic, salt and a drizzle of olive oil; a simple tomato salad of halved vine tomatoes with red onion and good olive oil; and a stack of extra flatbreads. A handful of quick-pickled red onions — sliced thin, submerged in lemon juice and a pinch of salt for 20 minutes — cuts brilliantly through the richness of the lamb.